For a brief
time in the 1850’s, South Park, a neighborhood south of Market Street,
was a ritzy address in the rapidly growing city. Taking
park developments in London as his model, an Englishman built a series
of residential town houses around a grassy common.
In the 1980s, lured by cheap rents, architects and
designers discovered the charms of South Park, and restaurateurs were
close behind. The area evoked the parks in
French Villages. South Park Café
itself, which seems like a slice of small-town France, set the Gallic
flavor. In the last 20 years this
unpretentious café with a serious kitchen has matured into one
of the best little French restaurants in San Francisco.
From the
California edition of Restaurant Magazine, June 2004:
After visiting
Chez Panisse, French Laundry and Campton Place I had one last stop. A small restaurant called The South Park
Café had been highly recommended by restaurant expert Adria Hagg. When I got there I could see why.
On the wall was an old menu from La Pyramide. Here was a fine example of the way Californian
food has evolved. The great chefs of
California have all spend time in France and Italy and been thoroughly
moved by the experience. They have brought
their knowledge back with them and, coupled with the great local
produce, have set about defining a new breed of cuisine.
In Ward Little’s case it’s the closest you’ll get to
an authentic French bistro outside France.
Ward is a
special breed of Californian chef. "
I worked in France when I was young," he said. "I
had a pushbike and a backpack and I worked my way across France and
ended up at La Pyramide. Madame Point was
still running the restaurant and I was hooked. I
was working the seasons and kept getting jobs with chefs who were
either ex-Point or ex-Guerard. It was
amazing. My great influence is Point, but
I am also very inspired by a chef named Andre Guillot.
"Back in San
Francisco, the former White House Chef under the Kennedys got me the
job at South Park. Cooking,
I’ve discovered, is about family, romance and being with people. If you cook with some sincerity you address
all those things."
California
food is a great marriage of France, Italy and the produce that grows in
abundance locally. But at its helm are
chefs who have traveled, fallen in love and brought something home.
Owner
Ward Little
studied at the Culinary Institute at Contra Costa College under the
legendary Ken Wolfe. In California he
worked four years at French restaurants including Le Marquis in
Lafayette and Miramonte in St. Helena. Afterwards he worked in France
including a season at La Pyramide in 1983, at Jaqueline Fenix in Paris
and with chef Jaques Chibois. Ward has been chef at South Park Café since
1993. He is an avid rock climber as
well as a proud father of daughter Chloe.